Aug 15th 2007

Hell's Kitchen

8:52 AM

As I watched the finale of Hell's Kitchen last night, I couldn't help but notice that the cooks just weren't that good. Not only did most of the food stuff I would expect from The Olive Garden or The Cheesecake Factory, it was stuff that seemed to hard for the cooks to prepare. So they planned boring meals, that their crews couldn't cook. Not very smart. Of course, that got me to thinking. What would I have done? As far as I could tell, they each needed to have three courses with three options for each course. So I came up with my own little menu.

For the first course I'd make butter poached prawns with vanilla bean buerre blanc; a sweet corn terrine with pea, corn, and cherry tomato salad; and a chicken satay with peanut sauce and coconut rice cake. Now that all sounds impressive. But it's really not. The buerre blanc, terrine, salad, rice cake, peanut sauce, and poaching liquid can all be prepared during prep. For service the only things that actually need to be cooked are the prawns and the chicken. If you have your poaching liquid heated to exactly 120F, it becomes simple to cook because they can't be over cooked. Just drop them in for the order as soon as they are called out. They will be heated through in 15 minutes, but can wait if they need to. The buerre blanc simply needs to be kept warm over a double boiler. The terrine just needs to be garnished. The hardest thing is to grill a chicken skewer!

Dinner is where things can really fall apart. The dishes are really much more complex and the crews on the show are awful. Again, you want to take as much work away from service and move it to prep as possible. My three courses for dinner would be: pepper crusted rib eye with leek rings and mushroom ketchup; pinot noir poached salmon with polenta cake, mushroom ragu, and pinot noir reduction; and deconstructed pumpkin ravioli with sage butter. Again, all much more impressive than it sounds. You do 80% of the work during prep. You drop the salmon portions, plus a pinot noir ice cube, salt and pepper into a sous vide bath at 130F. The steaks are seared quickly and they go into a sous vide at the same temperature. Now technically all your meat is "done" before service. You also make your pinot noir reduction, polenta, fresh pasta sheets, mushroom stock, mushroom ketchup, ravioli filling, and cut your leek rings during prep. Now you will need to have three stations going simultaneously during service. And each cook will have to cook at least two things. But nothing is hard. Put the weakest one on the fry station. He simply drops the leeks in a batter and then into the fryer when a steak is 4 minutes to the window. He also fries a sage leaf when the ravioli one minute to window. When the salmon is 4 minutes to window, he drops a polenta cake into the fryer. I had more difficult cooking assignments as McDonald's. The next weakest chef is on meat. He simple removes the beef from the sous vide bag, dreges it in crushed pepper, and sears it off for 4 minutes a side in a hot pan, removes it from the heat, and drops in a nob of butter while it rests for four minutes. For the salmon it's even easier. Take it out of the bag, and then whack the skin for a few seconds with a blow torch. The hardest job is going to be my saute station, but again I've made it as easy as possible. He has to make the mushroom ragu, the sage butter, and ravioli. The mushroom ragu is easy. Butter and mushrooms in a pan until it glistens. Add a spoonful of flour and let it cook for a few minutes. Add mushroom stock and bring to boil. The sage butter consists solely of melting butter with a sage leaf in it. The only hard part is the ravioli, and since it's deconstructed that isn't too bad. Drop the past sheets and put the filling in a pan at the same time. When the pasta sheets come out, dry them. Put one on the plate, the filling goes down, the other sheet goes down. I think very little could go wrong with all that.

Desert is the easiest part because virtually everything is already done before hand. It consists entirely of plating and using a blow torch. The three dishes would be homemade smore with vanilla salt, shortcake with vanilla ice cream and strawberry corriander foam, and finally bourbon creme brulee with candied bacon and pecans. Everything here is made during prep. Service for the smore is: graham cracker down, piece of chocolate down, marshmallow down, brown marshmallow with tourch, another piece of chocolate, vanilla salt. Service for the ice cream is: shortcake, scoop of ice cream, apply foam, apply cilantro leaf. For the creme brulee simply carmilize the top, and sprinke candied bacon and and pecans on top, then hit the whole plate with a dusting of powdered sugar.

I don't know about you. But I think I would have won.


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